Both complex and well structured, this organic Greek white appeals to those who like to go off the beaten tracks.

Who on earth has heard of malagousia? Few people have. Yet, in a world where generic Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc too often dominate our bottle choices, this refreshing and intriguing white grape varietal from northern Greece is worth a try. Better still, it's a real pleasure to taste.

With its straw-yellow color, it offers a rather mineral initial nose, which then gives way to nice citrus scents, before finishing with aromas of ripe apricots and roses. Round and silky on the palate, it also reveals very pleasant notes of garrigue and rosemary. Throughout, it retains a lovely acidity, making it the ideal companion to ceviches or seafood.

Few people are familiar with malagousia, as with the 350 to 400 indigenous grape varietals found in Greece, because this Mediterranean wine country has long given priority to volume over quality. It was only in the 1970s and 1980s that a few pioneers took an interest in their winegrowing heritage. In 1996, Michalis Giannikos, who had just inherited this estate located in Mycenae in the Peloponnese region, followed this trend, taking over the old family business (the estate dates back to 1896). However, he modernized the winery, introducing new techniques while planting vines in the Corinth region, a narrow strip of land that connects the Peloponnese to mainland Greece and from which this wine originates. Today, his vineyards cover eight hectares, all of which are organically grown. Michalis Giannikos is also an aficionado of single-varietal wines, such as this 100% Malagousia, which has been repeatedly praised by the critics.